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Thursday, July 30, 2009

Anchor River
Most of the people I know who fish have a soft spot for a few particular fishing locations. Often it is a result of having done well there or of having spent a lot of time fishing there. This will vary as life and time go by and indeed may seem to have no real permanence other than the fact that it is close to where they are or that they fish there more than other places. However I think there are some waters that are indeed more married to the soul of the fisherman rather than proximity or frequency. This is how the Anchor River on the Kenai Peninsula in Alaska feels to me.
On one hand it is a pretty but unremarkable river that is a steady but not heavy producer of fish. Given this, I will say that it does have, at least what I consider to be at least three real claims to fame.
The first is that the river has a good run of king salmon that is accessible to any fisherman. The run occurs in late spring and continues through July, but famously is part of a group of rivers that open for king salmon fishing on Friday night at midnight on Memorial Day weekend. I caught my first king salmon there in 1982 at 12:10 am on Friday night; it was a bright, fresh, hard fighting twenty five pound fish straight out of the salt. There are so many people on the river at this time that it is hard to find a place to fish, this is further complicated by the fact that the river is not open above the bridge, (about two miles of river are between the bridge and Bristol Bay), you cannot fish above the bridge until August and therefore everyone is crowded into a fairly small stretch of the river.
The second is that the river, even though it does not produce the heavy fish runs of other rivers, does have catchable runs of many species of sea run fish including king salmon, pink salmon, silver salmon, arctic char and most famously steelhead. The anchor river remains one of the last roadside fisheries where truly native steelhead can be caught and holds a rare claim of not having had any hatchery fish released, therefore if you catch a steelhead in the anchor river, you will have caught a fish that is a real native run fish in every sense of the word. I have caught some steelhead in the anchor river and although the fish are not considered big they are bright, colorful and are truly wild fish, the kind of fish that remind you that there are still places where life goes on as it always has and may, hopefully, continue to do so long after we are gone.
The third is how the anchor river got its name, the Anchor River is named after an anchor that Captain Cook lost off of the mouth of the river while exploring the coast of Alaska on one of his expeditions to map the Northwest Passage. The story goes that he could not retrieve the anchor and therefore had to cut it loose. He then named the river after the lost anchor.
The anchor river is not a big river in fact it is relatively small it can be easily waded in many spots even though it has many deep pools and some rough and rocky fast areas that are impassible. It is divided into two main areas, basically the area above the bridge and the area below the bridge, an interesting note is that the bridge is the most westerly bridge in the North American highway system. Below the bridge the river has many familiar if not locally famous pools and is a great place to catch fresh sea run fish. Above the bridge the river gets more complex and less well know, it also tends to be fished more sparingly and therefore has less fishing pressure. The pathways and trails become more grown over and less travelled and there are some pools that do not get fished often during the year, if at all.
The river has a copper tinge to it and is a freestone river punctuated with many large boulders and fallen trees or logs that can either divert or create holding areas for fish. It freezes over completely in the winter and can be muddy after a rain but for the many times I have been there it has been fishable and navigable.
One of the things that attract fishermen to the anchor river is that the native Dolly Varden trout and Arctic Char are fairly abundant and easy to catch so it is not unusual to catch and release many of these fish while targeting steelhead or Silver Salmon. Because they are attracted to the same flies it is not at all uncommon to get fairly frustrated with catching Dolly Varden one after the other while trying to hook an elusive steelhead. The fact that you can be catching too many 15 to 18 inch trout is one of the interesting things about the Anchor River. I look back on the many times where this has happened and feel some slight degree of shame for this. If you have never caught a Dolly Varden trout then the fish would amaze you with how pretty it is, it is bright and vibrant, more so than a brown trout and has vivid neon colors surrounding its many numerous spots, the males get red underbellies and a slightly hooked jaw during the spawning time and grow larger and more aggressive than the females. They are a really pretty fish and deserver more respect that I have at times given them. However I have come to really appreciate them and now consider catching one a true pleasure.
The flies that the fish bite on in the fall are fairly straightforward. The later in the year the more common it is to catch fish on flesh fly patterns and egg patterns; however the Dollies can be caught on dry flies and the more common types of steelhead wet flies. I use a modified mayfly pattern with a striped light brown and dark green quill body or a dubbed body with dark green and a light green floss thread. Both of these patterns seem to work well in sizes 14 to 18. There are hatches on the river but because of the amount of salmon eggs and decaying salmon in the river, especially later in the year in the river they seem to prefer some sort of streamer or wet fly. The Steelhead I have caught have been on small yarn bodied or chenille streamers with either a white, orange or red colored body and a light colored wing, either hair wing or feather in size eight to twelve. Most of these are tied with a lead body to get down in the water quickly and are tied on a medium thickness streamer or nymph hook. This is not to say that a green butt skunk or a smartly dressed Jock Scott would not do the job, it is just that the flies listed above are in more common use by the local fisherman.
One if the most fascinating things about the river is the diversity of fish that are present and catchable at any one given time. You can move from King Salmon, to Pink Salmon to Silver Salmon to Steelhead throughout the year and there is a good native stock of Dolly Varden and Arctic Char as well as some Rainbow Trout. I will have more on this river and how, when to fish it, getting there and where to stay in other posts coming soon. – KD5YDN

Monday, June 1, 2009

The pile up

I was fairly new to Ham Radio and lucky enough to have a good friend who was willing to help me "learn the ropes" as it were. In my first year of having my General license I was offered the oppportunity to do something really extraordinary. I was asked to go to the Island of Dominique and DX from there. It was an amazing experience. I had traveled around the Carribean a fair bit but this island was new to me and was a bit more of a remote experience than what I was used to. However I had a great place to stay, it was a one room shack out in back of a main house but the shack was surrounded by a quaint garden of native flowers including bouganvelia and other climbing flowering vines. The building did not have glass in the windows nor air conditioning but did have a nice breeze that flowed through most of the evening and was well kept and airy even in the heat of the day. I arrived at the airport and as is customary had to show my temporary radio operators license for the country as well as explain the equipment I was bringing in and the frequencies I would be using. All of this had to be arrange months in advance and sometimes deplending on where you go is quite tricky. After all, you have to apply for a radio operators license in a foriegn country and this can take time and effort. But it was all worked out and correct for the immigration and customs people and I was allowed to proceed with my two suitcases crammed full of radio gear and antenna's.
I set up the antenna and radio in less than 4 hours and with a little twitching and fiddling with an extention cord from the coffee maker, (everything was 50 Hz 220), I was able to convert and plug in a 110 outlet for my radio, power supply and PC, Magic!
I had carefully placed my log book and my pencil, fly tying kit for the expected boring times and everything else close at hand and was ready to go. I had managed to make one short QSL with someone in Texas and my radio seemed to be working well, therefore I was looking to talk to a lot of people that day. What happened was incredible, I was CQing and waiting for a reply when I talked to a guy who posted my call sign and frequency on a well used DX spotting site. I guess I had not realized that Dominique was a fairly desirable QTH because all of a sudden I was innundated with request for QSO. It was my first real experience with a pile up, which is what happens when you have so many people trying to talk to you at once that it is really tough to identify an individual operator to talk to, basically everyone talks over each other in a rush to get a QSO before the band changes and they cannot, or you cannot, hear each other. This was so frantic that I actually experienced some pile ups that went for over 6 hours without stop. I talked to over a 1000 different people over the course of 4 days of hard radio work. It was great fun. I made a lot of mistakes but everyone helped get me through it and everyone was patient and well mannered while we worked as many people as I could. I would wake up at 8am get on the radio at 8:30 and would not stop until 2:30 am. a fairly exhuasting schedule. But one that was worth every minute of it. In the end my ears were sore from the head set, my voice was tired and I was plain worn out. Great Stuff! I would do it again in a heartbeat. I talke to 1000 people in over 70 countries and the furthest was antartctica and China, Australia. Lots of Europeans and Russians as well as Kuwait and Saudi Arabia.
Truly a wonderful trip and one that I will remember forever.

Kd5ydn

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Wireless networks - Part One, The Dark Ages - Wireless and Bow Hunting

I have been working with wireless IP networking since 1994, my first wireless modem was a Ricochet Modem from Metricom, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ricochet_(internet_service), I was managing a network in Fremont and San Jose at the time and was constantly frustrated by having to dial in to Pacific Bell Internet Service in order to check on a finicky batch processing program for MRP that our company was using. I was looking for a way to do this wirelessly or at least on demand and started using this service. Looking back on it, it was actually pretty amazing stuff. I just happened to live in an area where they were deploying this service and decided to give it a try. I was trying to use wireless to solve a very real issue that I had and the service worked perfectly.
I am always facinated by the forerunners of actual mass adoption basically because it is often the case that we do not know what we have until it is gone. I remember that this service ran on 900 Mhz and had great range. It was very finicky to set up on Windows NT and required a serial port, Dial Up Networking Client and 3 toes of a rare south american bat to be put in the brew, but once you got it working, magic!
I bow hunt and had access at the time to a piece of property up by the Mount Hamiliton Observatory, I used to go up there very early and remember once sitting in my Ford Bronco in the dark and using my laptop to "dial-in" to the corporate network, check that the batch process had worked and then close up my laptop, put on my camoflage gloves, grab my bow and go hunting. I marvelled at how such brand new cutting edge technology could enable me to pursue such a base level and primative activity. Hey, it was not supposed to work, I was way to far from the modem I was using, but it did work through some environmental anomally that allowed the signal to bounce back and fore between my modem and the reciever on the other end, again magic!
One of the things that we need to remember over time is that it is the application of technology to enhance our lives that is important, not the technology itself.
KD5YDN

Friday, April 17, 2009

Casting on the flats

Stepping out onto a flat to fish for bonefish is one of the most pleasant things I can think of, this is because it is the culmination of so many convergent disciplines and skills that can only be tested at the moment when a fish is spotted and the cast is attempted. Every preparation for this moment is drawn upon a margin of error that is so high that once success has been achieved has an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. It is hard to describe to someone who has not been flats fishing before. The other thing about this type of fishing is that there is no outward dependency on other skills or assistance. The guide can show you a fish, he can even direct you where to cast and what fly to use. But in the end the cast and the outcome is the responsibility of the fisherman, and it his alone. This is ultimately the most satisfying aspect of this type of fishing. Bonefish, as opposed to other types of flats fishing does afford the opportunity for multiple chances of success but it is not forgiving of the casual approach. I have witnessed many fishermen that are accomplished at small stream fishing; salmon fishing; and other types of angling that have not been able to catch a bonefish. Most of this comes down to the necessary preparation and in a lot of cases; time spent on the flats working your fly into the wind, making proper placement of the fly is a high priority. It is interesting that high dollar hardware will not help with the success rate; nor hiring of high end guides or paying for the most expensive fishing vacation packages. I am a clear example of this. I have a seventy dollar fly rod and a fifty dollar reel and they both perform with adequacy but are hardly considered to be the cutting edge of technology. I have found that what makes the difference is an unconventional cast that allows me to be able to pick up lot of line quickly and a good “double haul”, coupled with good fly placement. The rest is pure confidence and the ability to stay with it even if the conditions are not very favorable.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

The portable fly tying kit for bonefish

This advice matters whether you tie your own flies or not or whether you are used to buying and using production flies. It is fairly simple: if you did not bring it with you then you will probably have to go without. This is pretty much true without exception, the idea of going down to the store and buying something that you have forgotten is just not going to happen. As a matter of fact it is an issue when fishing anywhere outside of the U.S. and Europe. So if you are going fly fishing, bring all you need with you, this includes everything from tippets to the small little weighted eyes that you did not bring with you, that are an essential ingredient to the fly that you could manufacture if you just had the correct ingredients, (and coincidentally is the one and only one that the fish are biting on). I have learned over time that it is essential to plan ahead in this regard but somehow I still manage to forget an item or two that would have made the difference in some seemingly significant way.
The most critical items to have a good supply of are items that cannot be substituted for locally or borrowed from a fellow fisherman. These include most fly tying supplies and items that are specific to your rig. It is also a very good idea to bring along additional gear in case something breaks. One of the most effective ways to do this is to pool the items that are redundant among your group, items such as fly rods and reels, hooks and other generic fly tying materials are a good example of this.
The most interesting items are those that are needed in order to match the local fishing conditions. Therefore some prep work is essential, I normally check with local fly shops and friends who have been to these locations as well as querying the hotel where we are staying and if possible talking to the guide about what we would need. This advice can only take you so far but sometimes it can be very important. (One if the items that our guide mentioned to me for this last trip is that we would need unweighted crazy charlies and small crab patterns. This was very useful as we were able to tie a bunch before we arrived and this saved a lot of time and missed opportunities, the water was very skinny and required a pretty shallow presentation). It is also important to understand exactly what you will be targeting and how to fish the flies, this makes a real difference on how you set up your rig and the type of equipment that you bring.
Lastly, it sounds very exotic to imagine that you can sit around after a days fishing and tie flies for the next day but the reality is that you will be challenged to do this for a couple of reasons.
First finding a place to tie that is out of the wind, where you can spread out your stuff is not as easy as it sounds in an environment with limited space and limited or no airconditioning. (You could end up in a very hot windless room with poor lighting and no table or desktop space).
Second, it is amazing how tired you get when you have been fishing all day in a hot and humid environment. I have found that it is probably best to tie a lot ahead of time and only tie the flies you run out of or absolutely need to meet unanticipated local conditions, if you can help it. It is far better to go out for dinner and have a beer than to sweat, (literally), over tying flies.

Dave

Piggie

The follow story relates how our recent guide got started as a guide in Belize.
With the exception of fly fishing Mecca's like Turniffe and Ambergrise Caye the smaller islands can provide very good fishing but guides may be hit and miss. The life of a fly fishing guide is not easy because of the fact that the evolution into a world class fly fishing guide is not the result of bohemian philanthropy or a trade passed down through the generations but more of an accident that has a happy ending. Usually this is the result of being in the right place at the right time and a lot of really hard work.
I had been fishing fairly hard for three days and I was relaxing in the boat after catching the last bonefish of the trip watching my fishing buddy casting to a pool that contained some resting fish. My guide "Piggie" was sitting in the back of the boat watching as well and we started talking about fly rods. Piggie then related with some obvious pride that he had over eight fly rods and at least that many reels. This was quite unusual he said as you cannot buy a fly rod in Belize anywhere, therefore he had traded for all of them with customers over the years some of them going back twenty five years!
In fact he pointed out that the one that was next to me in the boat, (that had been obviously mended twice was his first gift from a grateful fly fisherman). I then asked him how he started guiding fly fishermen, he told me that he was a commercial fisherman in his earlier years and did not know about fly fishing until the day before he became a fly fising guide.
Twenty five years ago Caye Caulker and Belize in general, he says was not known for bonefishing and in fact fly fishing for bonefish was a fairly esoteric sport compared to today. A gentleman that was on the island was looking for a guide to take him fishing and because Piggie had taken some sports out bait fishing, he asked him if he knew the location of some good bonefishing areas. Piggie laughed a little as he related that the day before the gentleman had been taken out to the reef to fish by another "guide", this is pretty ammusing if you knew that the reef was in deep water with breaking waves everywhere, not exactly optimum fly fishing grounds.
He said, "I knew nothing about fly fishing but my grandfather had shown me once or twice what a tailing bonefish looked like so I took the guy out where my grandfather had showed me". It turned out that this was a completely unfished flat and the guy caught ninety four bonefish in three days, at the end of the trip the guy gave Piggie his first fly rod. Piggie figured out that he was good at finding fish, even if he wasn't yet good at fly fishing and he started taking out fly fishermen regularly. He has since accumulated quite a large collection of tackle and a large amount of fly fishing experience.
One of the most enjoyable things about fishing with a good guide is that they quickly figure out what you want to do and try to make the experience a good one. I interviewed Piggie on the phone before we agreed to use him as a guide, he was the third guy I interviewed for this trip, he was the most impressive of the bunch but I did not realize he was pretty famous as a guide in Caye Caulker.
It was facinating sitting at the dock and having two people come up to him and ask him if he knew a guide named "Piggie" because one of thier friends had fished with him and wanted them to say hello, he just smiles and said that he is Piggie.
One day he related to me that a bunch of guys from Spicewood, Texas that had fished with him pooled thier money and paid for a plane ticket for him to come to Texas on vacation. That seems like a good validation of his congenial nature and fly fishing capabilities.
Lastly he knew, without a lot of discussion, that we were serious about our fishing but did not need a lot of handholding, therefore he would take us to areas to fish point out generally how to walk a particular flat, (he had a great way of telling someone how to walk on the soft sand without breaking through the thin brittle crust and going up to your knees, he called it being "polite" to the sand, by that he meant not stamping around but walking carefully, it fit the description perfectly).
As a guy that fishes when he can but not as often as I would like, it was very satisfying to see him slide out of the boat rod in hand once we were fishing down the flats, to head off to fish himself from time to time, there must be huge a satisfaction in working everyday at somethng but still liking it enough to do it for fun. :-)

Guides in the third world

Never judge a guide by his appearance, with the exception that he should at least look like he is sober and can communicate in your native language, other than that, the rest you find out on the water.
Bonefishing on the flats in exotic locations can be one of the most exciting things to do - ever. There is nothing like it, however bonefish are notoriously spooky and unpredictable they have been known to either appear or disappear on particular flats with a cycle known only to them and a highly experienced guide.
The fishing is intense and unforgiving, especially for the beginner and I have been fishing for bonefish long enough to know that there are many ways to not catch one but few that result in a successful hookup.
Therefore when selecting a guide thier are only two points of real interest to me:

1. Can the guide put us on fish? provided we fish hard with him and listen to his advice. It is essential that the guide know the local waters and is adept at positioning the boat and the fisherman to advantage. Remember, if the guide puts you on fish in a castable distance, getting the fly in front of the fish in a way that does not spook the fish is your problem, not the guides.

2. Does he have a reliable motor on his boat? This seems obvious but is probably the most important question to ask. I have spent more time watching a guide try to fix his motor, arrange a tow back to shore or explain that this never happens, that I try to avoid this at all costs.

In fact I would rate a guides ablilities against the following scale:

1. 20% - Is he the type that will throw a temper tantrum, sulk or become downright obnoxious if the client either misses a fish, cannot cast well or breaks a fish off for some reason? The reason this is only 20% is that I figure that if you are bonefishing and cannot fish then you should go practice and come back. (I am not talking about someone who cannot cast record distances as this would be unfair but if the guy plainly cannot cast a taper moderate distance or beats the water to a froth because he only fishes with nymphs in Colorado then it is his problem not the guides, fishing the flats requires some preparation). No the problem I have with it is that it is a bummer to have to watch this pathetic scene play out. It is like watching a guy throw the opening pitch in a baseball game and have the ball land in the infield grass and have the announcer ask the crowd if someone else would like to have a go. It is to humiliating to participate in, painfully so, it can drastically alter a friendship to see this happen.

2. 50% - Does he have a fishable boat and a good dependable motor? This is the most critical part of fishing from a boat and in getting back and forth from the flats. (A side note here is that for some reason a guide assumes that you will have sympathy for him if his boat repeatedly breaks, it seems to be part of the laid back mentality of the 3rd world fishing scene, I find this totally unaceptable as it cuts into my fishing time and is generally a real bummer). I once had a guy bring a mechanic along and in between fits and starts of fishing he was administering first aid to the motor with a hammer and screwdriver, again, a real bummer when paying a sizable amount to be put on fish. Lastly the boat needs to be set up for fly fishing, meaning it needs a clear casting deck with no cleats or rails and should be tidy and free of junk. I had a guy once put a conch shell in the boat and my fly line got tangled on it and cut an expensive shooting head line.

3. 20% - is the guy enthusiastic and engaged? Regardless of his temper, does he love to fish? I find this an essential part of the process as it makes a real difference in how hard and how much effort he puts in. However I will say if you cannot fish and cannot cast, even the most enthusiastic guide loses interest. This is an intangible that needs to be sussed out before you arrive, therefore you can gauge the way that you will both approach the ups and downs of the day.

4. 10% - Is he lucky? This makes a real difference and is not quantifiable except by reference or reputation. Also lastly, if the guy fly fishes and is interesting in catching fish it is a great shared experience, it is always good to have the same shared goal. Good guides love to put people on fish and are good and lucky with this. Given that, people do make thier own luck.

This leads me to Piggie, I fished with him for three days in Caye Caulker recently and was very impressed. He possessed all of the attributes that were essential in making the trip a good experience. He was an interesting guy and understood exactly the type of experience that we were after in a short period of time. I will talk about him in my next post.